The Politics of Street Style
- Pampler Editorial Team
- Sep 9, 2024
- 3 min read
Updated: Jan 12
Unveiling the Dynamics Behind the Camera.
Street style has evolved into something far removed from its roots. Once an unfiltered space for personal expression during Fashion Week, it has now become a meticulously curated spectacle—one driven by branding and strategic endorsement. What was once the playground for editors and insiders has transformed into the domain of celebrities and influencers, where personal style intersects with the language of marketing. These modern-day billboards, as influential as they are ubiquitous, now dominate the conversation, shaping the fashion narrative with the power to broadcast it to an audience that spans the globe..
In a revealing conversation with Vogue’s “The Run Through” podcast, street style luminary Philip Oh offered insights into these changes, shedding light on how the landscape has changed and what it means for both the industry and its key players.
From Spontaneous Moments to The Commercialization of Style
Street style photography has long been a window into the unfiltered moments that define fashion culture. Early pioneers like Tommy Ton and Phil Oh excelled in capturing glimpses of personal style—fashion in its raw form, before it was hijacked by social media algorithms.
As Oh reflects, “Street style used to be about finding those off-the-cuff moments, the raw and unpolished glimpses of fashion.” It was an arena where spontaneity ruled, with the eclectic and avant-garde flourishing in its most authentic state. But that charm, born of serendipity, is now more orchestrated than ever. With PR teams behind every look, the pursuit of brand visibility often outweighs genuine individuality.
Diving deeper into the fight for a moment in front of the lens, Ton adds, “We miss the days when someone would come to Fashion Week without the intention of being photographed. Now, it’s a parade of peacocking, where people are dressing to get noticed.”
The Insular Nature of Modern Street Style
This shift has created a more apathetic fashion ecosystem, where Fashion Week streets are no longer teeming with the diverse voices of editors, buyers, and stylists. Instead, the scene is dominated by a narrow circle of recognizable figures and controlled appearances, many of whom are more concerned with curating their digital personas than the critique of the season's presentations and collections.
“The industry has become smaller and more insular,” Ton observes. “There’s less room for new voices and fresh perspectives.” This concentration of influence can stifle innovation and limit the excitement of discovering new talent.
The Blessing and Curse of IG Fame
For the emerging street style star Instagram fame can open doors—sponsorships, modeling contracts, and a global audience. Yet, it also brings intense scrutiny and the pressure to maintain a constant presence in the fashion spotlight.
As Oh notes, the quest for street style fame can turn into a double-edged sword, where increased exposure comes with its own set of challenges.
For many, the allure of street style fame can quickly sour as the demands for visibility intensify. The constant need to stay relevant and maintain a polished image can eclipse the genuine passion for styling, cheapening the craft by making it much less personal.
The politics of street style mirror a broader shift in fashion, driven by commercialization and social media, highlighting the complex interplay where authenticity and competition often clash in the race for the next viral moment.
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