It's the season of skinny suits for the office-ready look, heritage moments, and the yassification of the cowboy (yes, as in yee-haw).
The Fall 2024 Menswear & Haute Couture Fashion Week Edit delves into the electrifying world of January and February Runways, offering a captivating glimpse into the recent Channel Couture Show where Margot's debut set the stage alight. Kendrick Lamar's cinematic exploration of a lost button added an unexpected narrative layer to the ethereal garments, highlighting the unanticipated lightness of couture.
Meanwhile, Jean Paul G. mesmerized with a romantic collection adorned with bows and pearls, seamlessly merging two distinct aesthetics. Schiaparelli stunned audiences with a dramatic display, featuring a robo baby, while Alaia/Peter Muller embraced the challenge of using just one material, Marino Wool, in a fun and innovative twist.
AN OVERVIEW
Alaïa
Pieter Mulier's Alaïa collection for Summer-Fall 2024 revolutionized haute couture by embracing simplicity and purity. Utilizing fine merino wool, Mulier showcased the fabric's versatility, creating garments with continuous shapes, innovative detailing, and a symbolic emphasis on circles and curves, representing both the curves of women and circles of trust. The collection marked a departure from rampant sexuality, opting for subtler curves, craftsmanship, and an intimate presentation, circling back to Alaïa's heritage and soul.
Louis Vuitton
Pharrell Williams's Louis Vuitton Summer-Fall 2024 collection embarked on a sartorial odyssey through American history, spotlighting the often-neglected narratives of Black and Native American cowboys. In a journey that resonated with craftsmanship, embroidered lace shirts, fringed chaps, and turquoise-riveted suiting took center stage.
Collaborations with Native artists, intricate storytelling through prints, and nods to Western cinema and streetwear created a rich tapestry, illustrating Williams's commitment to candidly narrating these pivotal chapters in American heritage.
Rick Owens
Rick Owens challenges contemporary mass luxury's "airport beauty" standard, advocating for alternative and attainable forms of beauty. Employing absurdity as a subversive tool, Owens defies enforced conformity, notably wearing platform boots through airports as an act of resistance. His collection, titled "Porterville," draws inspiration from his upbringing in the bleak California town, emphasizing the sanctuary-like contrast of the Parisian show venue.
The narrative, explored through totemic perfecto distortion, suggests a storytelling aspect. The unexpected appearance of Geobasket sneakers hints at a connection with those experiencing their version of "Porterville." The reduced venue size and multiple-performance show reflect evolving fashion dynamics, with external elements adding context and ambiance to the overall experience.
Gucci
In a bold rebuttal to past critiques, De Sarno dismisses claims of commercialism and staunchly defends the authenticity of his designs, determined not to be swayed by previous criticisms. Maintaining continuity from the previous season, he employs a "mirroring" approach, recreating a familiar setting and emphasizing the evolution of his designs. Positioned as a details-oriented purist, De Sarno celebrates intricate elements in his creations, with a particular focus on outerwear that showcases his passion for coats.
Rejecting the pursuit of Instagram moments, he prioritizes the design process and customer collaboration, positioning himself as a deeply involved creative director. The collection challenges societal norms with silk choker-clasped scarves and crystal collars, while irreverent tailoring techniques break traditional menswear boundaries. Enlarged Jackie bags, inspired by Samuel Beckett's travels, highlight the fusion of fashion and literary influences. Despite a lack of a specific narrative, De Sarno emphasizes the presence of words, suggesting a focus on expressing conceptual ideas through the garments.
Prada
The latest Prada menswear collection unveiled at Fondazione Prada offered a unique blend of office mundanity and nature-inspired spectacle. The runway set featured a raised glass floor creating an illusion of walking over a meadow stream, adorned with water, stones, grass, and reeds. The initial surprise of the environment quickly gave way to the familiar sight of office swivel chairs lining the runway. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons explained that the collection delved into our disconnection from nature and the desire to return to it, addressing the contrast between nature-themed screensavers and synthetic environments.
The collection included wearable working environments for different types of men, with textured swimming caps, goggle-like spectacles, leather sandals, and outdoor-appropriate outerwear subverting traditional office attire. Triangular leather belts and nylon totes added both symbolism and functionality. Raf Simons' personal preference for leather slippers and mention of the Elfstedentocht subtly hinted at a critique of human denial of environmental issues. The menacing set, described by Mrs. Prada as scary, emphasized the untouchable aspect of nature, adding a layer of intrigue to the overall experience.
In Defense of Peter Do
The critics went all off. So will we.
Here’s the healthy debate: are we expecting new CDs to come in and step into the brand to continue telling the exact same story or interpret the story though their lens and tell it using their own words? Let’s explore this further via a very basic example via Gucci’s resume; Tom Ford era and Alessandro era. Both iconic, both strategic, both technically supreme and both critically acclaimed. Both recognizably Gucci yet complete different aesthetics.
I find the criticism here to be baseless and felt like it was pierced together by random heresy and quotes. Fundamentally, Peter Do and Helmut Lang are very compatible in their cores and aesthetics.
Peter Do received criticism for not capturing the spirit of Lang but also got called out for borrowing throwback elements from the archives. What’s wrong with that? Doesn’t every designer do that? Is that not common practice?
In all fairness, there were a few moments of the show that felt like they were added in for the SEO. But Instagrammable does not mean not wearable- in fact, those viral elements make the clothes consumer-facing (is that not the whole point of a ready to wear collection?).
Finally, can we please stop dragging Phoebe Philo into this conversation?
Savoir-faire vs soul- hah!
The exaggerated silhouettes. They are so expressive- how fun!
This looks pimped out. This looks opinionated. How very very New York.
Luar is always so incredibly personal. His work comes from a place deep within, exposing a bit more of himself and his story every collection. These experiences tie into bigger overall themes and conversations that shape the story of the collection.
There is soul in Luar. It is more than just making clothes and savoir-faire . There is a longing for being understood.
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